The first step is to pull the Sweeper into CAD. Conveniently, Comet provided a picture on its website that has the outline of the Sweeper and its dimensions. I brought that over to SolidWorks and made a simple model of the board. It's important to remark that the model is flat, while the actual board has concave and rocker, however, this approximation should be more than enough for the first modifications that I want to do. The other intricate curves might be important later on, when I'm designing some of the add-ons that will go on the top, and I might have to use other techniques to bring the right shape into CAD when I get there. 

I noticed that the flush mounts and the mounting holes of my 2026 Sweeper are a little different from the reference picture. I have more mounting options in reality, so I adjusted the model. Although I love the interesting tail shape of the CR-1500 and the super aggressive nose of the Stinger, they couldn't beat the elegance of the Mitch Pro, so I grabbed that as inspiration and adjusted to mesh perfectly with the original Sweeper contour.

Leveraging the precision of my 3D printer, I printed in PETG guides that attach to the trucks mounting holes, This allowed me to feel out the shape on top of the real skateboard before committing. I'm not used to skating narrow wheelbases, the shortest I've gone (measuring from the inner bolts) is 20.5". So being able to visualize in real life with guides was a great way to make sure I can move my front truck up a little and still have enough of a standing platform. I'm designing around a 19.5" wheelbase.

The 3D printed guides were also how I marked the shape before cutting. I went at it with a cordless jig saw and followed on the outside of my pencil marks, as I would later on sand it down to the perfect shape. After cutting to shape I re-attached the 3D printed guides and using a 4" x 36" belt sander, I sanded down the shape to meet exactly at the guide. It was very easy to follow the guide as the contrast between the light maple color and the black 3D print made it very easy to see what I was doing. After sanding was done and the outline was pretty good, I noticed that the chamber was all over the place, as keeping a constant angle free handing the board on top of the belt was a bit of a challenge. So using the 6" disc sander attached to the belt sander, I set the work table to 18 degrees and gave the edge a constant chamfer. This made the final result go from acceptable, to looking like a production board. I cannot stress enough how big of a difference it made and it will be something I will make sure to do in any future board projects.